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《中国农史》[ISSN:1000-4459/CN:32-1061/S]

卷:

43

期数:

2024年01期

页码:

67-82

栏目:

出版日期:

2024-02-28

文章信息/Info

Title:

Market Demand, Cultural Selection, and Technological Innovation: The Development of Indigo in China during the 14th-17th Centuries

作者:

王 颖 包 平

（南京农业大学 中华农业文明研究院，江苏 南京 210095）

Author(s):

WANG Ying BAO Ping

（Institution of Chinese Agricultural Civilization，Nanjing Agricultural University，Nanjing 210095）

关键词:

消费市场; 文化认同; 制靛染色技术; 蓝靛生产

Keywords:

consumer market;  cultural identity;  indigo dyeing technology;  indigo production

分类号:

S-09；K212

文献标志码:

A

摘要:

14—17世纪，纵跨元明清三朝，无论政权如何更替，都未改变蓝靛色作为官方服饰的主要颜色，蓝靛也逐渐成为重要的农业经济作物之一，其背后的原因主要有三。第一，市民消费拉动了蓝靛市场。因为蓝靛染成的青蓝色系棉布及蓝印花布兼具美观与实用功能，符合市民需求。市民阶层壮大，棉纺织及印染技术改进，使得蓝靛色棉织物在服饰消费中占比扩大。第二，蓝靛色服饰所蕴含的文化认同对蓝靛消费具有促进作用，主要表现为礼制象征、文人审美、风俗习惯等方面，这些进一步巩固了蓝靛在植物染料消费中的重要地位。第三，明以后，较成熟的中国传统种蓝制靛染色技术系统的形成，涵盖了蓝草的生产与加工，蓝靛的制作与染色，主要表现在明代高产高效的制靛技术的革新、“标缸”体系与复杂套色染技术体系的完善、蓝草种植加工体系的区域化，这些在技术层面上解决了蓝靛的市场供给问题。总之，本文以市场为导向，以文化认同为基础，以完备的生产加工及应用技术体系为支撑，解读蓝靛在14—17世纪逐步成为中国产销之首的传统植物染料的原因。

Abstract:

During the 14th -17th century, spanning over the Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties, was a regime changed period in China, while the indigo color was remained as the main official dress color and Indigo also had gradually become one of the important agricultural cash crops, there were three main reasons behind it. Firstly, citizens’ consumption drived the indigo market. The blue cotton fabrics and blue calico dyed with indigo were beautiful and utilitarian, which were in line with the needs of the public at that time. The growth of the citizen class and the improvement of textile technology and dyeing technology made the proportion of blue indigo cotton fabric in clothing consumption expand. In addition, in the Ming and Qing dynasties, the official control over indigo gradually weakened, and the indigo production among civilian was full of vitality. Secondly, the cultural identity reflected by costumes dyed with indigo which was mainly manifested in official and folk aspects such as ritual symbols, literati aesthetics, customs and habits, which not only promoted the consumption of indigo, but also further consolidated the important position of indigo in the consumption of vegetable dyes. Thirdly, the formation of more mature system of Chinese traditional indigo planting, making and dyeing technology solved the problem of its market supply at the technical level after the Ming Dynasty. This covered the production and processing of bluegrass, the production and dyeing of indigo, the innovation of high-yield and efficient indigo making technology in the Ming Dynasty, the improvement of the "standard indigo vat" system and the complex cross-color dyeing technology system, and the regionalization of bluegrass planting and processing system. In a word, this paper guided by the market, based on the cultural identity and supported by the complete production, processing and application technology system, and interprets the reasons why indigo gradually became a traditional vegetable dye with the best production and marketing in China from the 14th to the 17th century.

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更新日期/Last Update: 2024-03-27