[1]孙长青 沈俊如 王 荧.“君子不远庖厨”：文人、商贾、美食家与明清淮扬饮食的发展[J].中国农史,2024,43(03):132-142.
　SUN Changqing SHEN Junru WANG Ying.The Gentleman is not Far from the Cook：Iiterati，Merchants，Gourmets and the Development of Huaiyang Cuisine in Ming and Qing Dynasties[J].AGRICULTURAL HISTORY OF CHINA,2024,43(03):132-142.
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“君子不远庖厨”：文人、商贾、美食家与明清淮扬饮食的发展()
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《中国农史》[ISSN:1000-4459/CN:32-1061/S]

卷:
43
期数:
2024年03期
页码:
132-142
栏目:
出版日期:
2024-06-30

文章信息/Info

Title:
The Gentleman is not Far from the Cook：Iiterati，Merchants，Gourmets and the Development of Huaiyang Cuisine in Ming and Qing Dynasties
作者:
孙长青1 沈俊如1 王 荧2
（1.郑州大学 公共卫生学院，河南 郑州 450001；2.南京农业大学 中华农业文明研究院，江苏 南京 210095）
Author(s):
SUN Changqing1 SHEN Junru1 WANG Ying 2
（1.College of Public Health, Zhengzhou University, Zhengzhou 450001; 2.Institution of Chinese Agricultural Civilization, Nanjing Agricultural University, Nanjing 210095）
关键词:
文人; 商贾; 美食家; 淮扬饮食
Keywords:
literati;  merchants;  the gourmet;  Huaiyang cuisine
分类号:
S-09；K218
文献标志码:
A
摘要:
作为中国饮食文化代表之一的淮扬饮食在明清时期得到了长足的发展，从地方菜系一跃成为“国宴”之一。淮扬饮食在明清时期迎来发展期得益于诸多因素，而消费者——主要是江南文人、商贾与美食家在其中扮演重要角色。一方面，大运河在明清时期带动了淮安与扬州两座城市的发展，繁荣的城市经济与物资流通为淮扬饮食奠定了物质基础；另一方面，明清时期江南知识分子将享乐与物质追求作为处世哲学，为淮扬饮食的发展提供了思想准备。在此基础上，淮扬地区的文人与士子通过诗会宴饮，推动淮扬饮食向“精致”发展，而该地区的盐商巨贾则通过攀比炫耀推动了淮扬饮食“奢侈”的一面。最后，明清时期淮扬地区出现了一大批诸如袁枚的美食家，从饮食哲学的高度推进了淮扬饮食的理论化，从而促进了淮扬饮食在明清时期的传承与发展。因而，淮扬饮食并未因大运河的衰落而变得籍籍无名，反而超越地方限制成为全国性菜系。这为饮食文化遗产保护提供了思路。
Abstract:
As one of the representatives of Chinese food culture, Huaiyang cuisine had made great progress in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and had become one of the "state banquets" from the local cuisine. Huaiyang cuisine developed in the Ming and Qing dynasties due to a number of factors, in which consumers, mainly Jiangnan literati, merchants and gourmets, played an important role. On the one hand, the Grand Canal promoted the development of Huaian and Yangzhou in the Ming and Qing dynasties, and the prosperous urban economy and material circulation laid a material foundation for Huaiyang cuisine. On the other hand, in the Ming and Qing dynasties, Jiangnan intellectuals took pleasure and material pursuit as their philosophy of life, which provided ideological preparation for the development of Huaiyang cuisine. On this basis, the literators and scholars in Huaiyang region promoted the development of Huaiyang cuisine to "delicacy" by feasting at poetry fairs, while the salt merchants in the region promoted the "luxury" aspect of Huaiyang cuisine by comparing and showing off. Finally, during the Ming and Qing dynasties, a large number of gourmets such as Yuan Mei appeared in Huaiyang area, which promoted the theorization of Huaiyang cuisine from the height of food philosophy, thus promoting the inheritance and development of Huaiyang cuisine in the Ming and Qing dynasties. Therefore, Huaiyang cuisine did not become obscure due to the decline of the Grand Canal, but surpassed local restrictions to become a national cuisine. This provides ideas for food cultural heritage protection.
更新日期/Last Update: 2024-07-07