食物·仙药·医药：中国古代蝙蝠的食用研究-《中国农史》

文章信息/Info

Title:: Food· Elixir· Medicine: A Discussion of the Eating of Bats in Ancient China

Author(s):: HUO Bin; (College of History and Tourism Culture, Shanxi Normal University, Linfen 041004)

摘要:: 从食用性出发，蝙蝠在中国古代主要有食物、仙药、医药三个维度。首先，中国岭南地区吃蝙蝠的历史至少有千年。宋代以后的记载稀缺，原因是吃蝙蝠的人群多属于极少被关注的社会下层民众，身份与文化属性决定了他们无法掌控饮食历史叙事话语权，能被记录也是中朝士大夫对岭南地区偏见、惊奇的投射。其次，白蝙蝠是长生仙药之一。先秦两汉时期存在蝙蝠崇拜，认为其是人与神沟通的媒介，具有神秘的超自然力量，在此信仰影响下白蝙蝠的长寿性与仙药性被建构。第三，西汉初年蝙蝠即可入药，药理是模拟或顺势巫术。宋代以来中医已经在向求实理性发展，努力从事去巫术化的工作，蝙蝠药也在此行列。今人受“医食同源”观念影响，拘泥于古医籍，错误嫁接蝙蝠的仙药性认知，看不到中医扬弃的糟粕，导致野味药膳流行，殊不可取。滥食野生动物陋习背后的巫术思维必须要予以揭示与纠正。

Abstract:: From the point of view of edible, bat in ancient China mainly had three dimensions: food, elixir and medicine. First of all, Ling nan region of China has a history of eating bats for thousands of years.Records were scarce after the Song Dynasty, because the bat-eaters were mostly lower class people who received little attention. Their identity and cultural attributes determined that they could not control the discourse power of the narrative history of food. Being able to be recorded is also the projection of prejudice and surprise of the literati in the central Plains towards the Ling nan region. Secondly, white bat is also one of the elixirs of longevity. Thirdly, bat worship existed in the Pre-Qin and Han Dynasties. It was believed that its supernatural power was the medium of communication between man and God. Under the influence of this belief, the longevity and immortality of white bats were constructed. In the early years of the Western Han Dynasty, bat could be used in medicine. The pharmacology was simulated or homeopathic witchcraft. Since the Song Dynasty, Chinese medicine had been developing to be realistic and rational, and had been engaged in the work of witchcraft. Bat medicine was also listed here. Witchcraft thinking behind the bad habit of eating wild animals must be revealed and corrected.