八珍主人：宋代酱品研究-《中国农史》

文章信息/Info

Author(s):: CHENG Minsheng; （School of History and Culture, Henan University, Kaifeng 475001）

摘要:: 酱是宋代宴饮、祭祀等场合的重要菜品与祭品，作为烹调的核心佐料，可搭配谷物、蔬菜、肉类以提升风味，是饮食体系中不可或缺的部分。酱品为民众食物的适口性与美感，做出了突出贡献，也使更多有营养的生物成为食材。就酱品社会史而言，宋代呈现三个特征，一是酱品整体地位提高，为多数家庭日常生活必备，并前所未有地成为官方俸料的一部分；二是宫廷不再像前代那样专设制酱机构；三是南方用酱多于北方。在医药与礼仪方面，酱品也不可缺少，还常作礼品馈赠友人。黄豆酱油是中国原产，宋代首创。由于更多美味的酱品出现与提高，历史上颇负盛名的蒟酱在宋代就已失传。

Abstract:: Sauces served as pivotal dishes and sacrificial offerings during banquets and rituals in the Song Dynasty. As essential seasonings in cooking, they enhanced the flavours of grains, vegetables, and meats, forming an indispensable component of the culinary system. Sauces significantly contributed to the palatability and aesthetic appeal of commoners’ fare, while also rendering a wider array of nutritious organisms suitable for consumption. Regarding the social history of sauces, the Song Dynasty exhibited three defining characteristics: firstly, sauces gained elevated status, becoming essential staples in most households and, unprecedentedly, forming part of official salaries; secondly, the imperial court no longer maintained dedicated sauce-making institutions as in earlier dynasties; thirdly, sauce consumption was more prevalent in the south than in the north. Sauces were also indispensable in medicine and ritual practices, frequently exchanged as gifts among friends. Soy sauce, originating in China, was first developed during the Song Dynasty. With the emergence and refinement of more flavourful sauces, the historically renowned konjac sauce had already fallen into disuse by the Song period.